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Mondeuse noire : ウィキペディア英語版
Mondeuse noire

Mondeuse noire is a red French wine grape variety that is grown primarily in the Savoy region of eastern France. The grape can also be found in Argentina, Australia, California, Switzerland and Sicily. Plantings of Mondeuse noire was hit hard during the phylloxera epidemic of the mid to late 19th century which nearly wiped out the vine from eastern France. While the grape recovered slightly in the 20th century, French plantations of Mondeuse noire fell sharply in the 1970s, with just over left in France in 2000. In the early 21st century, it seems the variety has increased somewhat in popularity, as it can give good wines if the planting site is chosen carefully.
It was previously suggested than Mondeuse noire was identical to the northern Italian wine grape variety Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso due to the similarity of the wines. In California, many plantings of Mondeuse noire were called ''Refosco'', further adding to the confusion. DNA analysis has shown that this is not the case, and that the two varieties are unrelated.〔 Mondeuse noire is very similar to Muscardin which is found in Southern Rhône where it is one of the thirteen grape varieties permitted in the wine Châteauneuf-du-Pape. One difference is that Muscardin has less sensitivity to downy mildew.〔J. Robinson ''Vines, Grapes & Wines'' pg 203 Mitchell Beazley 1986 ISBN 1-85732-999-6〕
Ampelographers also thought that Mondeuse noire was a color mutation of Mondeuse blanche but DNA evidence has shown that not to be the case with the two varieties having a parent-offspring relationship though it is not yet clear which variety is the parent and which is the offspring. References to Mondeuse usually are to Mondeuse noire rather than to Mondeuse blanche. Mondeuse noire does have a pink-berried color mutant, ''Mondeuse grise'', which was on the verge of extinction until ampelographer Pierre Galet was able to identify vines and have cuttings planted at the Domaine de Vassal conservation vineyard in Montpellier ran by the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique (INRA).〔J. Robinson, J. Harding and J. Vouillamoz ''Wine Grapes - A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours'' pgs 649-651, 878 Allen Lane 2012 ISBN 978-1-846-14446-2〕
In Savoie, Mondeuse noire is used in blending with Gamay, Pinot noir and Poulsard where it contributes its dark color and high acid levels to the wine that allow the wines to age well.〔J. Robinson ''Vines, Grapes & Wines'' pg 201 Mitchell Beazley 1986 ISBN 1-85732-999-6〕 The grape is a permitted variety in the ''Appellation d'origine contrôlée'' (AOC) wines of Bugey in the Ain department and Vin de Savoie.〔
==History==

There are several theories on the origin of the name ''Mondeuse''. It could be derived from:
# the Franco-Provençal terms for pruning, ''émonder'' and ''monder'', which could be a reference to the fact that Mondeuse noire vines begin shedding their leaves before the grapes are harvested; or
# the words ''moduse'' and ''moda'', which have been historically applied to grape varieties that yield a high proportion of must; or
# the French term ''mal doux'', which means "badly sweet" and may be a reference to the bitter flavors of Mondeuse noire berries when sampled off the vine. To this day, the synonym ''Maldoux'' is still associated with Mondeuse noire in wine regions such as Jura in eastern France.〔
Most ampelographers believe that Mondeuse noire is indigenous to the Dauphiné region of southeastern France in an area that is now part of the Drôme, Hautes-Alpes and Isère departments. An early theory, popularized in 1887 by French ampelographer Pierre Tochon, is that Mondeuse noire could be the Ancient Roman grape ''Allobrogica'' described by Pliny the Elder and Columella as well as the 2nd century Greek writer Celsus. Ampelographers disagree about the identity of this grape, which grew widely in the land of the Allobroges after whom it is named for, with other theories speculating that the grape was instead the ancestor of Pinot noir or Syrah.〔〔H. Johnson ''Vintage: The Story of Wine'' pgs 90 & 369 Simon and Schuster 1989 ISBN 0-671-68702-6〕〔Wine Pros ''(The Rhone )"'' Regional Spotlight Archives. Accessed: May 7th, 2013〕〔Wein-Plus ''"(Mondeuse noire )"'' (Deutsch) (Subscription required) Accessed: May 7th, 2013〕
The first mention of Mondeuse noire, under the synonym ''Maldoux'', dates to a February 3, 1731 decree from the parliament of Besançon in the Doubs department of the Franche-Comté. This decree mandated that all plantings of several grape varieties, including Maldoux, Enfariné, Foirard noir, Foirard blanc, Valet noir and Barclan blanc, that were planted after 1702 had to be uprooted and replaced with cereal crops. Under the name ''Mondeuse noire'', the grape was noted in records from 1845 growing in the valley of the Isère river.〔

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